In the steaming
Shanghai morning, my boss leans over in the cab
as we wind through
layers of highway stacked throughout the city,
past dizzying round towers
and crumbling concrete, over the river
whose mottled water is
full of ships and slicks like a child’s finished bath.
“When foreign
officers came to visit,” he says, “Mao would plant trees
to hide how thin the
people looked, how poor and broken the land.”
Later that day, on
the broad bright highway in Shaanxi, we drive by
dozens of white
billboards casting shadows on the powdered earth.
GIVE FULL SUPPORT FOR SUCCESS OF SAMSUNG
PROJECT!
ACCELERATE XI’AN’S TREMENDOUS DEVELOPMENT!
Shining factories and
fabs rise from the plain like high-tech mirages,
enticing wanderers
with their promise of vast, deranged progress.
We stop at the high
arched gates separating Xi’an’s commercial zones.
The sun is
relentless. Men and women crouch
in the soil by the road,
chipping at the wiry weeds, shifting the landscape to one of lushness
and prosperity. In the
distance, dozens of half-done concrete towers
loom over the plain, ready to house the workers who will pour in
from the provinces. My boss
leaves the van and snaps endless photos.
That night we eat rice-crusted short ribs in a theater where the actors
blow fire from behind green and gold masks. Poised at the curtain,
the silks of their costumes changes like magic, red to purple and blue,
but I see the stagehand snatching the garments off from behind,
layer by layer. I think of
trees in trucks, forests razed here and raised
there, factories built and words printed with sheaves of paper money.
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